Sunday, February 26, 2017

Tiger 211 SS.Pz.Abt 102 Normandy 1944.

I worked on the base coat this weekend and finally completed it. I initially didn't like the RAL 8017 paint mixture I started out with and decided to re-do this part of the camo. I used a mixture of Tamiya and Vallejo paints diluted with retarder, acrylic and Lacquer thinner. I am fairly happy with how it turned out. The tri-tonal colurs used were RAL 8017, RAL 6003 and RAL 7028. I also applied a a tri-tonal filter from MIG Productions.

Friday, February 17, 2017

Tiger 211 SS. Pz. Abt 102 (AFV Club 1/35)

I have more or less completed the build now. Here are some pictures of Tiger 211 before final primer and after. I added the co-axial MG as one of the last steps. The turret is just sitting lose on the hull. I have not attached it as yet. She's just about ready for  paint.



Tuesday, February 7, 2017

Tiger 211 SS. Pz. Abt 102 (AFV Club 1/35)

Been working on the Tiger fenders and soldering on the braces. Still a few more to go but it's coming along. I am trying to improve my soldering and make the joints cleaner. So far I think they look okay.

Monday, January 30, 2017

Tiger 211 SS. Pz. Abt 102 (AFV Club 1/35)

I got the turret together and added the weld seams along the edge of the turret roof. The barrel is slightly longer when compared to the drawings in the Jentz and Doyle book on the Tiger but not enough to make a noticeable difference in my opinion. Tiger 211 had the later smaller muzzle break so I used this option from the Kit. It also had the broad pattern zimmerit on the turret sides. I achieved this by using my 2 part Tamiya epoxy putty and a  brass gear that I had taken from an old mini blind. I got this idea from fellow modeler Phil Appleyard who first used it on his tiger builds.  The gear can't be mounted to a roller so I had to use my fingers instead to roll it along the putty. After rolling I patted the surface down slightly to flatten out the zimmerit but not everywhere as zimmerit was actually uneven in places. This is something you cant get with decal zimmerit or the ATAK resin stuff. They are all too perfect. For the area near the lifting lugs I used my regular Lionroar roller that I used on the hull. Tigers had the narrower, smaller pitch zimmerit in these areas. I think it worked it okay. I did forget to add zimmerit to the hinge on the rear hatch so still need to do that.

out quite well if I don't say so myself.

Sunday, January 15, 2017

1/35 Tiger I Late (AFV Club) Tiger 211 SS.Pz. Abt 102

Worked on the tow cables and cleaning rods this weekend and managed to complete this step of the build. I used the Bronco Butterly nuts is various places to complete the tow cable and cleaning rods clamps. On the left side of the tank I changed things up  a bit by putting 2 of the cleaning rods together and securing them in place. Tigers crews would often leave some sections of the cleaning rods together or a complete cleaning rod itself and just secure it to the tank rather than taking every section apart and locking them on place on the tank.

Monday, November 21, 2016

1/35 Tiger I Late (AFV Club) Tiger 211 SS.Pz. Abt 102

I finally got the tools and clasps done for my Tiger. I used a set of Griffon Model Clasps. These are not the traditional 3 part type but rather a 2 part type with the base and clasp forming one part and the locking arm another. I think they are easier to work with then the 3 part type but still a tough go.

One area that was another challenge was the shovel. Here I had to scratch build the mount for it as the kit part just basically has it lying flat on the hull. The actual shovel mount had legs on the part that holds the head of shovel in place and a raised pedestal approximately half way down the shovel that held the clamp. I used some bits of Photo etch I had from another Tiger PE set to reproduce this feature.

During my clean up of the sledge hammer to remove the molded on clamps I managed to snap it in two. Undaunted, I grabbed some 1.2 mm plastic rod and sanded it down on two sides to give it a flatter appearance. Next, I drilled out a hole in the head of the sledge then carved out the area in the shape I needed for the shaft and fixed the new handle to the head. A quick and fairly simple fix. For the bolt cutters there was no way I was going to be able to remove the molded on clamps without destroying the part so I snipped off the end where the locking arm goes, cleaned it up and added said locking arm to the part. The kit part does not give you the the retaining loop that the bolt cutters slide into so I made this with some lead foil.

For the cleaning rods and tow cable mounts and the tow cables themselves, the kit gives you the all in one version which is pretty much standard with most kits. I didn't like these as the detail was soft especially on the tow cables. In looking through the sprues I found that AFV Club gives you the individual mounts/brackets for the tow cables and cleaning rods. This was a nice surprise as I was planning on scratching my own. Definitely a time saver. You can see them in the pics below. Also, I discovered that I had a set of Eureka XXL Tiger I tow cables which I had purchased and forgot about a few years back. Because I had forgot about them I purchased a  Griffon set which also comes with the brass cleaning rods. So, no need to scratch the cleaning rods, another time saver. Of course both sets have the track changing cables as well which is nice.

Tiger 211 did not have its head lamp in place in the pictures of the actual vehicle so I am leaving it off. I punched a disc out from plastic card with my punch and die set to replicate the lamp socket. The lamp conduit is from lead wire. As you can see it has a distinct loop that clears the top of the armour plate. A number of models I have seed have this conduit flush with the top of the armor plate which was not the case. Finally, I added the camo net loops on the sides and rear of the hull.

The C-Clamps on German Tigers had two Butterfly nuts to secure and remove the clamp. Fortunately,  I had some Bronco 1/35  German butterfly nuts so I used these on the top hull C-Clamp.  I am going to add them to the rear C-Clamp as well. Didn't want to add them at this early stage as they would have probably broken off with all my rough handling of the model up to this point.